HOW TO PREVENT ANIMAL CONFLICTS, AND WHAT TO DO IN EVENT OF CONFLICTS
Read some of our Q and A'S below, or ask a question of your own! The questions here discuss wildlife conflicts, and wildlife damage. At the bottom of the page is a place for you to ask your own question. Your question will be emailed to a human-wildlife conflict specialist and answered within a couple days.
Woodpecker Damage
I'm having trouble getting any work done because I'm busy cleaning up after what I think is a Flicker. He's been busy pecking holes in the façade of our building and leaves little bits of Styrofoam insulation all over his worksites. It looks like our building has a terrible dandruff problem. As it is a place of business my boss is hesitant to hang reflective tape or owl figures, plus it's a two story building and I'm not sure how we would get up to his spots to make them effective. Is there anyone in this area that could live trap him? He's beautiful and we're not feeling murderous just yet.
Answer:
From the description it does sound like you have a flicker on your property. Flickers commonly cause damage in the spring, when they try to make nesting cavities on homes and buildings. They are one of the few woodpecker species that don't really mind if they are living with humans. They seem to be attracted to wood siding and adobe. Unfortunately, it is illegal for anybody to live trap and remove migratory birds in the nesting season. And, removing them wouldn't work anyway -- they travel thousands of miles each year, so any relocation efforts we could do wouldn't be far enough to keep them from coming back if they wanted to.
The only option is to make your office building less desirable. Other than 'scare tactics' you could try a) setting up alternative nest sites by installing nest boxes, b) excluding them from your building by installing wire mesh over the areas that are attractive to the flickers. For the quickest and most reliable solution I would lean toward exclusion.
This is a brief article on the subject
https://www.usuhumanwildlifeinteractions.com/northern-flicker.html
If you don't /can't do the work yourself, I think that there are some private pest companies that could easily do this for you.
From the description it does sound like you have a flicker on your property. Flickers commonly cause damage in the spring, when they try to make nesting cavities on homes and buildings. They are one of the few woodpecker species that don't really mind if they are living with humans. They seem to be attracted to wood siding and adobe. Unfortunately, it is illegal for anybody to live trap and remove migratory birds in the nesting season. And, removing them wouldn't work anyway -- they travel thousands of miles each year, so any relocation efforts we could do wouldn't be far enough to keep them from coming back if they wanted to.
The only option is to make your office building less desirable. Other than 'scare tactics' you could try a) setting up alternative nest sites by installing nest boxes, b) excluding them from your building by installing wire mesh over the areas that are attractive to the flickers. For the quickest and most reliable solution I would lean toward exclusion.
This is a brief article on the subject
https://www.usuhumanwildlifeinteractions.com/northern-flicker.html
If you don't /can't do the work yourself, I think that there are some private pest companies that could easily do this for you.
A Skunk Keeps Digging Up My Lawn, How Can I Remove it Safely?
The quickest way for you to get rid of the skunk would be to call a nuisance wildlife expert, such as Critter Control, to come and trap your animal. If it is of a concern for you, you might ask the company their removal policy - most states require trapped animals to be euthanized. This is because relocating an animal such as a skunk could result in the spread of diseases such as rabies.
The other, more time consuming way, would be to control your lawn to remove the grubs, thus removing the food source for the skunk.
The quickest way for you to get rid of the skunk would be to call a nuisance wildlife expert, such as Critter Control, to come and trap your animal. If it is of a concern for you, you might ask the company their removal policy - most states require trapped animals to be euthanized. This is because relocating an animal such as a skunk could result in the spread of diseases such as rabies.
The other, more time consuming way, would be to control your lawn to remove the grubs, thus removing the food source for the skunk.
I Keep Finding My Peony Flower Leaves Notched, What Could Be Causing This?
Nothing is wrong with your peonies but something is eating them. I can't be 100% sure but evidence points to root weevils which famously cause notched leaves as they eat. Here is a solution for the adult root weevils: adult feeding, as evidenced by leaf notching, can be controlled with sprays of certain pyrethroid insecticides such as bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, and lambda-cyhalothrin. These should be applied to the foliage and it can also be useful to treat areas at the base of plants, where they rest during the day. Control may be improved if applications are made late in the day or in evening, as the weevils become active and move onto the plants after dusk. You can control the larvae by applying natural nematodes (a type of worm) to the soil. Just visit your local greenhouse and they can point you in the right direction.
Nothing is wrong with your peonies but something is eating them. I can't be 100% sure but evidence points to root weevils which famously cause notched leaves as they eat. Here is a solution for the adult root weevils: adult feeding, as evidenced by leaf notching, can be controlled with sprays of certain pyrethroid insecticides such as bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, and lambda-cyhalothrin. These should be applied to the foliage and it can also be useful to treat areas at the base of plants, where they rest during the day. Control may be improved if applications are made late in the day or in evening, as the weevils become active and move onto the plants after dusk. You can control the larvae by applying natural nematodes (a type of worm) to the soil. Just visit your local greenhouse and they can point you in the right direction.
How Would I Know if a Horned Owl is Acting Territorially While I am Hunting in a Tree Perch?
An owl that hangs around where you are is most likely curious and confused. It is probably wondering how on earth you got in the tree and what your intentions are. Also, it may be feeling a bit territorial, determining if you are going to be a threat to its turf. Perhaps you could be using one of its favorite perches! An owl will definitely not consider you as prey, because they generally eat small mammals, and a human is far too large. You are most likely not in danger, but it's never a bad idea to keep wildlife at a distance.
Definitely be cautious around an owl that doesn't have fear, but as long as it isn't trying to make contact with you, I would just keep a constant eye out to see where it is. Shoo-ing an owl away is a great response. There is no need to hurt it, but there is also no need to put yourself in harm's way either. Owls are quite intelligent and curious, and perhaps you smell strange to the owl, thus increasing its curiosity.
To avoid causing conflict in the future, look for holes or hollowed out areas around your tree stand, at about the level of your tree stand (15 -25 feet high).
Even if owls aren't nesting at the time, they may still be using these cavities for protection. You don't want to get in the way of an owl and its cavity.
You may also look for "whitewash" which is the concentrated urine that birds excrete. Sitting under or directly over a branch with a lot of whitewash means that you are sitting close to where the owl likes to commonly perch.
Finally, you can look on the ground for "owl pellets", these are the hair and bones of small mammals that the owl regurgitates. They are about 1 - 2 inches long, and maybe 1/2 inch wide. These pellets around a tree are an indication that you are sharing your perch with an owl. If there is only a little whitewash or a pellet or two, then the owl uses the tree, but not habitually. Your chances of a large owl encounter are low, but as these signs increase, so do your chances of another very close encounter.
An owl that hangs around where you are is most likely curious and confused. It is probably wondering how on earth you got in the tree and what your intentions are. Also, it may be feeling a bit territorial, determining if you are going to be a threat to its turf. Perhaps you could be using one of its favorite perches! An owl will definitely not consider you as prey, because they generally eat small mammals, and a human is far too large. You are most likely not in danger, but it's never a bad idea to keep wildlife at a distance.
Definitely be cautious around an owl that doesn't have fear, but as long as it isn't trying to make contact with you, I would just keep a constant eye out to see where it is. Shoo-ing an owl away is a great response. There is no need to hurt it, but there is also no need to put yourself in harm's way either. Owls are quite intelligent and curious, and perhaps you smell strange to the owl, thus increasing its curiosity.
To avoid causing conflict in the future, look for holes or hollowed out areas around your tree stand, at about the level of your tree stand (15 -25 feet high).
Even if owls aren't nesting at the time, they may still be using these cavities for protection. You don't want to get in the way of an owl and its cavity.
You may also look for "whitewash" which is the concentrated urine that birds excrete. Sitting under or directly over a branch with a lot of whitewash means that you are sitting close to where the owl likes to commonly perch.
Finally, you can look on the ground for "owl pellets", these are the hair and bones of small mammals that the owl regurgitates. They are about 1 - 2 inches long, and maybe 1/2 inch wide. These pellets around a tree are an indication that you are sharing your perch with an owl. If there is only a little whitewash or a pellet or two, then the owl uses the tree, but not habitually. Your chances of a large owl encounter are low, but as these signs increase, so do your chances of another very close encounter.
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Could You Please Help Me Identify What Caused the Damage to Pumpkins in my Agricultural Field?
You mentioned that you were unable to find any tracks or sign associated with the culprit. Given what I know of your location, I would say that this is bird damage. The shallow damage is very commonly seen in bird damage in many types of fruit. The puncture holes may be caused by crows. In asking my colleagues across the country many have seen such damage caused by crows and woodpeckers. Both species have a very strong bill, which can puncture food items. Because of your location, I do not think that this is a woodpecker, though, and it is more than likely caused by a crow. You mentioned the puncture wounds were about 1/4" wide and 1" deep, which fits the idea of crow damage. If you are still curious, you might consider setting up a trail camera in the pumpkin patch. Not only is it fairly cheap, but it is definitive. |
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Keeping Rabbits Out of Your Vegetable Garden - Local of Iron County, Utah.
Damage from rabbits has been a plague for gardeners since we started agriculture, I think. So, there is a lot of information out there -- some information better than others. Given that you are from Iron County, I'm going to assume that you are having problems with cottontails, not jackrabbits, although the possible solutions would be similar.
Control of rabbits can come in several forms: Habitat Modification, Exclusion, Repellants, and Frightening.
First, you should try to remove anything that can create a shelter for rabbits. This would include debris and brush piles in the back of the yard, low level decks that can have a small area between the deck and the ground, a storage shed that is seldom entered by you, a fallow field with high grass; basically anything that could make a suitable place for a small rabbit to hide. By removing "rabbit friendly" habitat, you will reduce the ability of a rabbit to spend time in your yard.
Second, you will need to (try) to exclude rabbits from your garden. How you do this will depend mostly on the size of your garden and whether or not you have garden boxes or simply till the land. The best method for excluding rabbits is to build a woven wire (1-in mesh) fence about 2 ft. high. Unlike European rabbits, cottontails do not dig extensively. However, the can still dig; so if you have a smaller garden, I would suggest burying the wire mesh a couple inches into the ground. Otherwise, just make sure to have the fence very snug against the ground. If you already have a wire fence around your garden, simply attach the smaller mesh fence along the bottom, making sure it is snug to the ground and about 2 feet high.
If exclusion isn't working you may also try repellants. Repellants require more frequent attention than fences, but if used correctly they may work. The downside to many commercial repellants is that they are often not something you would like to spray on your food. However, they may be a consideration prior to your vegetables producing edible products. Some people have reported that sprinkling mothballs around the garden will repel rabbits. However, if you have a larger garden, or small children in the area, this may not be a good option.
There is a commercial market for frightening devices for most animals. To be useful, they need to be unpredictable yet constantly applied. For example, a playback of a cottontail in trouble that is attached to a motion sensor might work for you. There are also a few new devices that squirt water when activated by motion. However, it is important to remember that a hungry rabbit will conquer his/her fears in order to get food.
Damage from rabbits has been a plague for gardeners since we started agriculture, I think. So, there is a lot of information out there -- some information better than others. Given that you are from Iron County, I'm going to assume that you are having problems with cottontails, not jackrabbits, although the possible solutions would be similar.
Control of rabbits can come in several forms: Habitat Modification, Exclusion, Repellants, and Frightening.
First, you should try to remove anything that can create a shelter for rabbits. This would include debris and brush piles in the back of the yard, low level decks that can have a small area between the deck and the ground, a storage shed that is seldom entered by you, a fallow field with high grass; basically anything that could make a suitable place for a small rabbit to hide. By removing "rabbit friendly" habitat, you will reduce the ability of a rabbit to spend time in your yard.
Second, you will need to (try) to exclude rabbits from your garden. How you do this will depend mostly on the size of your garden and whether or not you have garden boxes or simply till the land. The best method for excluding rabbits is to build a woven wire (1-in mesh) fence about 2 ft. high. Unlike European rabbits, cottontails do not dig extensively. However, the can still dig; so if you have a smaller garden, I would suggest burying the wire mesh a couple inches into the ground. Otherwise, just make sure to have the fence very snug against the ground. If you already have a wire fence around your garden, simply attach the smaller mesh fence along the bottom, making sure it is snug to the ground and about 2 feet high.
If exclusion isn't working you may also try repellants. Repellants require more frequent attention than fences, but if used correctly they may work. The downside to many commercial repellants is that they are often not something you would like to spray on your food. However, they may be a consideration prior to your vegetables producing edible products. Some people have reported that sprinkling mothballs around the garden will repel rabbits. However, if you have a larger garden, or small children in the area, this may not be a good option.
There is a commercial market for frightening devices for most animals. To be useful, they need to be unpredictable yet constantly applied. For example, a playback of a cottontail in trouble that is attached to a motion sensor might work for you. There are also a few new devices that squirt water when activated by motion. However, it is important to remember that a hungry rabbit will conquer his/her fears in order to get food.
Trapping Skunks - How Best To Kill One Once Trapped?
There are many ways to kill animals. I can't tell you what is the "best" way to kill a skunk because it depends on your resources and your personal preferences. However, the American Veterinary Medical Association has provided guidance as to what are ethical methods to kill animals, based on the type of animal. There are also illegal methods, such as using different types of poisons in a way that isn't listed on the label. They are illegal uses mostly because the way that they effect "non-listed" animals is considered unethical. Any professional working with wildlife is expected to conform to the guidance provided by the America Veterinary Medical Association. The best way to kill a skunk without getting sprayed is to use a toxicant. These registered toxicants contain carbon and sodium nitrate. If you search online you can find many blogs about carbon-monoxide poisoning for skunks. I wouldn't trust anything that doesn't come from a professional. On this webpage I have also included a fact sheet on dealing with skunks humanely.
There are many ways to kill animals. I can't tell you what is the "best" way to kill a skunk because it depends on your resources and your personal preferences. However, the American Veterinary Medical Association has provided guidance as to what are ethical methods to kill animals, based on the type of animal. There are also illegal methods, such as using different types of poisons in a way that isn't listed on the label. They are illegal uses mostly because the way that they effect "non-listed" animals is considered unethical. Any professional working with wildlife is expected to conform to the guidance provided by the America Veterinary Medical Association. The best way to kill a skunk without getting sprayed is to use a toxicant. These registered toxicants contain carbon and sodium nitrate. If you search online you can find many blogs about carbon-monoxide poisoning for skunks. I wouldn't trust anything that doesn't come from a professional. On this webpage I have also included a fact sheet on dealing with skunks humanely.
How to Tell the Difference Between a Ground Squirrel and a Prairie Dog
Click below to learn how to tell the difference between Ground Squirrels and Utah Prairie Dogs
Click below to learn how to tell the difference between Ground Squirrels and Utah Prairie Dogs
ADDITIONAL QUESTIONS?
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